Context
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Rogue waves — unusually large waves compared to ones which come before and after — pose a threat to ships, coastal and offshore infrastructure, and human lives.
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Unfortunately, there has existed no method to forecast rogue waves — until now.
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About Rogue Waves
- In oceanography, sea state refers to the condition of the surface of a large body of water at a certain location, at a certain point of time.
- The World Meteorological Organization (WMO) sea state code characterises sea state based on wave height on a scale of 0 (no waves) to 9 (waves over 14 m).
- Rogue waves defy the average sea state, and are twice the size of surrounding waves, according to the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA).
- Such waves often form when swells — which occur not due to local winds, but distant weather systems — converge to raise a single, amplified wave.
- They may also form when ocean currents compress swells to create strong billows.
- While scientists have long known rogue waves are not altogether unpredictable, the lack of a real-time forecasting method has had deadly consequences.
Source: IE
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